Watches & Wonders 2025: The finest non-Rolex novelties at a glance

In 2025, Geneva once again became the Mecca of Haute Horlogerie: At Watches & Wonders, renowned manufacturers and independent makers showcased where the art of watchmaking is headed. From innovative tourbillons to masterful calendars to the subtle evolution of well-known lines – we briefly present the most exciting non-Rolex novelties fromA. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Grand Seiko, Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Zenith and Nomos Glashütte.

A. Lange & Söhne: Technical brilliance meets material poetry

Odysseus in Honeygold

The sportiest line from Glashütte receives a royal touch: The new Odysseus in Honeygold combines the robust design of the collection with the exclusive gold alloy used only by Lange. With its warm, rich color and the precise automatic caliber L155.1 Datomatic, it remains a Watch for connoisseurs with taste – now in a limited edition and with fine finishing.

Minute Repeater Perpetuel

Another highlight from Glashütte: The new Minute Repeater Perpetuel combines two of the most demanding complications – minute repeater and perpetual calendar – in a balanced designed case made of platinum. An acoustic and technical masterpiece that embodies the highest standard of Saxon fine watchmaking.

Chopard: Elegance in two extremes

Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS in platinum

Must Have

Chopard

Alpine Eagle

Chopard Alpine Eagle steel / gold automatic men's watch 298600-6001 LP: 28000EUR [2600910] Sale price14.950€

Limited

Chopard

1000 Miglia

Chopard 1000 Miglia steel automatic men's watch 168555-3001 Limited [2602784] Sale price3.550€

Chopard

Gran Turismo

Chopard Gran Turismo steel automatic men's watch 16/8997 [2604249] Sale price2.950€

Limited

Chopard

Mille Miglia

Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph steel automatic men's watch 16/8934 Limited [2604165] Sale price4.250€

Chopard

Mille Miglia

Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph steel automatic men's watch 168992-3001 [2603876] Sale price3.150€

Chopard

Mille Miglia

Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph steel automatic men's watch 16/8331 LP: 10300EUR [2603757] Sale price3.650€

Chopard

Mille Miglia

Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph steel automatic men's watch 8331 [2603021] Sale price3.050€

-200€

Chopard

Mille Miglia

Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph steel automatic men's watch 8992 [2600534] Sale price2.650€ Regular price2.850€

Chopard takes its sporty Alpine Eagle line to a new level – with the ultra-thin model 41 XP CS. The case made of platinum-coated steel houses the in-house caliber L.U.C 96.17-S. With only 3.3 mm height, the Movement remains robust and precise – an ideal daily driver for aesthetes with a penchant for understatement.

L.U.C Quattro

On the other end of the spectrum is the new L.U.C Quattro whose manufacture Movement with four barrels offers a Power Reserve of 9 days. The rose gold case, paired with a silver sunburst Dial and COSC certification, makes it the perfect Dresswatch with technical depth.

Grand Seiko: Japanese precision with a visionary touch

Spring Drive U.F.A. SLBG001

With the SLBG001, Grand Seiko presents the first model of the new U.F.A. (Ultimate Functional Art) series. The case made of Ever-Brilliant Steel, combined with a textured dark blue Dial, houses a revised Spring Drive caliber with 5 days Power Reserve. The aesthetic is reduced but highly emotional – typical for the Japanese master brand.

Laurent Ferrier: Horizontal harmony

Classic Auto Horizon

With the Classic Auto Horizon, Laurent Ferrier reinterprets his popular Classic line: The Dial is dominated by a horizontal color gradient – from deep midnight blue to light gray-blue at the top edge. A subtle reference to the horizon. Inside works the automatic caliber LF 229.01 with micro-rotor and exceptional finishing.

Parmigiani Fleurier: Eternity in classic attire

Toric Quantième Perpétuel

The renaissance of the Toric line also brings back the perpetual calendar: The new Toric Quantième Perpétuel combines a finely guilloché Dial with Moonphase and retrograde date display. The caliber PF333 is precise, finely decorated, and appears particularly noble through the warm rose gold case.

Zenith: Flyback for pioneers

Pilot Big Date Flyback “160th Anniversary”

For its 160th anniversary, Zenith launches a particularly characterful version of their Pilot chronograph. The Pilot Big Date Flyback impresses with a striking Dial, large date window, and flyback function. Inside works the modern El Primero 3652, distinguished by high frequency and reliability – a modern homage to the pioneering days of aviation.

Zenith

El Primero

Zenith El Primero chronograph steel automatic men's watch 03.0520.4010 [2600916] Sale price3.250€

-200€

Zenith

Defy

Zenith Defy steel automatic men's watch 03.0516.685/21.M516 [2600994] Sale price2.650€ Regular price2.850€

Zenith

Chronomaster

Zenith Chronomaster chronograph steel automatic men's watch 03.3200.3600/69.M3200 LP: 10800EUR [2604325] Sale price5.950€

Zenith

Elite

Zenith Elite chronograph steel automatic men's watch 03.2272.4069/51.C700 [2603748] Sale price3.750€

Limited

Zenith

El Primero

Zenith El Primero chronograph carbon automatic men's watch 10.2260.400/69.R573 Limited [2600974] Sale price6.050€

Zenith

Defy

Zenith Defy steel automatic women's watch 16.9200.670/01.MI001 LP: 13500EUR [2601067] Sale price7.250€

Nomos Glashütte: Simple – but anything but plain

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Nomos Glashütte caused a stir with the new Club Sport Neomatik Worldtime, presenting a spectacular expansion of its sporty model range.

The case now measures a striking 40 millimeters but remains absolutely suitable for everyday use with a water resistance of 100 meters. Inside works the newly developed manufacture caliber DUW 3202, which despite its complex world time mechanics is only 4.8 millimeters thin. The selection of time zones is conveniently done via a pusher, while a 24-hour home time display at 3 o'clock in light and dark blue reliably distinguishes between day and night.

At launch, two series models are available – with Dials in classic silver-white or deep blue. The line is complemented by six limited editions named after natural forces like Canyon, Dune, or Glacier – each limited to 175 pieces and inspired by the powerful colors and contrasts of extreme landscapes.

Nomos

Tetra

Nomos Tetra steel manual winding unisex 481 [2601949] Sale price1.550€

Nomos

Orion

Nomos Orion steel automatic men's watch 392 LP: 3380EUR [2507422] Sale price2.250€

Limited -300€

Nomos

Tangente

Nomos Tangente steel manual winding men's watch Lävograph Limited [2601103] Sale price3.150€ Regular price3.450€

Nomos

Tangente

Nomos Tangente steel manual winding men's watch Tangente 33 BSH [2600272] Sale price1.250€

Limited

Nomos

Tangente

Nomos Tangente steel manual winding men's watch Tangente Leipzig2000 Limited [2604156] Sale price1.650€

Nomos

Neomatik

Nomos Neomatik steel automatic men's watch 180 LP: 3820EUR [2603811] Sale price2.550€

Limited

Nomos

Tangente

Nomos Tangente steel manual winding men's watch Tangente EXPO 2000 Limited [2603929] Sale price1.650€

Nomos

Tetra

Nomos Tetra steel manual winding men's watch 491 Tetra Goldelse [2603809] Sale price2.350€

Conclusion: Fine mechanics with variety

Watches & Wonders 2025 showed that mechanical watchmaking is more alive than ever. Whether ultra-thin tourbillon, world premieres in materials, or innovative calibers – every brand stays true to its DNA while showing courage to evolve. Those looking for an extraordinary timepiece in 2025 will definitely find it among these new releases.

The general trends of Watches & Wonders 2025 at a glance:

• Ceramic remains a popular material for especially sporty Watches.
• “Blue is back” – blue cases, Dials, and more return after many years of “green”
• It remains trendy to reissue popular models in precious metals like Gold, white gold, and platinum
• Rubber straps continue to enjoy great popularity
• Case sizes remain moderate and compact, ranging from 36-40mm
• Pastel Dials are as popular as visible Movements through sapphire casebacks
• Vertical manufacturing, in-house production of the Movements is becoming increasingly important for manufacturers