Why the lug-to-lug says more about the size of a watch than the case diameter

A case diameter of 34mm, 36mm, or 42mm – lug widths of 18mm or 20mm as well as a lug-to-lug of 48mm. The numbers on a watch's data sheet can certainly raise some question marks in the minds of some interested parties. But don't worry. This guide will help you find the ideal watch size for your timepiece and better classify the various measurement sizes.

In the late 90s and early 2000s, watches tended to become bigger and more complicated. The more modest style of timepieces from the 20th century seemed to fade into the background. Then came the global financial crisis from 2008 to 2009 and the subsequent demand for subtler expressions of wealth and luxury. China rose as a market for watches and traditionally preferred smaller watch models. A new generation of watch enthusiasts, who had a preference for smaller sizes and were interested in the history behind watchmaking, slowly emerged. Since then, smaller watches have come back into fashion, and even brands like Breitling, Panerai, or Omega, known for their modern, larger models, have started offering smaller watches.

Tips, Tricks, and Trends

Besides the diameter, color, and material, the lug-to-lug is also important when buying a watch. On one hand, the look of a watch plays an important role in the choice; on the other hand, it should of course fit your wrist and hug your wrist so that it sits slightly loose with some air in between. Consider these tips & tricks before deciding on a watch of your choice:

Rule of thumb for watch sizes:

• For "Small Watches," watch diameters of about 34 to 37 millimeters are recommended.
• "Medium Size Watches" have diameters of about 38 to 41 millimeters.
• "Large Size Watches" include a diameter of about 42 to 45 millimeters.

Consider your wrist size:

• The size of your wrist, also called "Wrist," is crucial.
• For a wrist circumference under 6 inches, "Small Watches" fit well.
• Wrists with a circumference of 6 to 6.5 inches are suitable for "Medium Size Watches."
• "Large Size Watches" harmonize best with wrists over 7 inches

The Case Diameter, that is the diameter of the watch case, is the exact specification for the size of a watch. Interestingly, the case diameter does not always have to exactly match the contact surface of the case. For round watch models, the contact surface is often larger than the case back itself.

Here are some popular round watch models with a diameter under 40mm:

Chopard Alpin Eagle (Small) – round

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Small Seconds – round

Especially Breitling has recognized the importance of the contact surface when describing the watch models. 

Angular watch models for slim wrists that are currently trending are:

Jaeger Lecoultre Reverso Duoface  – square

Panthere de Cartier (Lady Stahl) – square

The Lug-to-Lug, in German roughly horn-to-horn, refers to the lug-to-lug measurement or the width between the lugs of a timepiece. As the name suggests, the width is measured from one lug to the other across the case. The outer band width of the metal or leather strap also plays a significant role and is always specified in the watch description. For an exact determination between your wrist and the size of the desired watch, the lug-to-lug measurement is crucial. But other dimensions, such as the lug width, i.e., the distance between the two strap attachments, are also important.

A practical example: the brand Nomos Glashütte is known for larger "horns" and a wider lug-to-lug. Therefore, a 37mm Nomos Club Campus wears noticeably larger on the wrist and more like a 39mm watch. This watch thus also fits perfectly on a "medium-size wrist."

Prominent luxury watch manufacturers like Hublot, Blancpain, Audemars Piguet, and even Rolex rely on round case shapes. However, Rolex is distinguished by the skillful combination of a round dial with a tonneau-shaped, vintage-inspired case, as seen in the Rolex Oyster. An interesting overview of different case shapes and their brands is offered by the following blog article: 

Determine the appropriate size of the watch case – Zeitauktion – Watch Blog

Overall, for many watch enthusiasts, choosing a suitable watch is a science in itself due to its almost endless selection. Although some watches may have the same lug-to-lug measurement on paper, the watch can later appear somewhat larger on one's own wrist. The color tone also sets a certain nuance in the appearance. For example, rose gold watch models can appear bulkier than their silver variants. A Rolex Yacht-Master in 37mm also fits perfectly on medium-sized wrists. Not to be underestimated is also the material of the watch, which can vary from light to heavy in titanium. The trend is moving away from heavy chunks towards light watches with titanium cases. For example, Tudor uses this robust and at the same time light metal in the Pelagos, Sinn in the T50, and TAG Heuer in the Aquaracer. Josi Lindner

Trends in watch design:

The current watch trends are characterized by minimalism with clear dials and simple cases or newly revived vintage classics, which then also take the original smaller size as a benchmark. This was recently the case with the Tudor Black Bay 54. In general: the flatter the watch model, the more it suits slimmer wrists. Slimness is trendy in watches and brings style and comfort for slim wrists – a true renaissance of downsizing and a small blessing for Watch Brands like Cartier Bulgari and Nomos.