The big watch strap glossary

Everyone knows it and everyone who wears a wristwatch uses it: the Watch band. There are many terms in circulation on this topic, which not every Watch wearer can understand. For example, what are pins and spring bars? And what is a Milanese band made of?

We have asked ourselves numerous questions about the Watch band. Perhaps we do not have all the answers, but you will find most of them in our large Watch band glossary.

Watch strap glossary

Bracelet types

Slip-through strap
This type of band consists of a single piece and not, as with conventional Watch straps, of two parts. Slip-through bands are especially suitable for Watch cases with fixed lugs. However, note that the Watch case is connected to the band in such a way that it is thicker at the connection points. Slip-through bands are therefore mainly suitable for narrow and medium-sized Watch cases.

Leather bracelet
Leather is a natural product obtained from various animal species such as cattle, crocodile, alligator, ostrich, horse, and ray. The leather from all these animal species can be dyed and processed, so it is used, among other things, as Watch straps. The cut leather pieces are either sewn by hand or processed with machine stitching.

Milanese bracelet
Milanese bracelets consist of fine metal wires that are intricately woven together in a complex process. This creates the typical, finely linked structure of a band that visually appears to be made from a single piece. Milanese bracelets are very flexible, as the wire mesh perfectly adapts to the wrist. Likewise, the bands are extremely robust due to the use of stainless steel wires.

Rubber strap
A rubber strap is similarly constructed to a leather strap. Usually, these strap types are made from one piece and equipped with tang buckles. Rubber is a very elastic and at the same time robust material that you will enjoy for a long time. Rubber straps often have a texture worked in that resembles a metal bracelet. Rubber straps and the associated watch cases are usually color-coordinated.

Textile strap
Watch straps made of textile, synthetic, or nylon are made from one piece and are offered as slip-through straps. Due to the versatile material, textile straps are often colorful or decorated with patterns. Common closures for textile straps are sliding pin buckles.

on the strap

Adhesive lug
A leather strap that offers the possibility to be attached to a fixed spring bar is, among others, a strap with an adhesive lug. The watch strap has a folded tab at the lug that is equipped with an adhesive spot. The tab is wrapped around the fixed bar for attachment and fixed by sticking together.

Split pins
To connect two link elements of a metal bracelet, small metal pins are needed: the so-called split pins. Three types of split pins are distinguished: The pressure split pin is a small pin that is flattened at one end. It is pushed into the opening to fix it and holds firmly due to the flat end. The screw split pin can be loosened with the help of a small screwdriver. This type of split pin has a slot where the spring bar tool can grip. It is thus loosened and secured by a screw mechanism. The L-split pin gets its name from its L-shape. The pin is firmly inserted and can be loosened by leverage.

All about the strap

Lug width
The strap lug width is the distance between the two clasp lugs or horns of the Watch case. This measurable area is used to attach a Watch strap. The value of the strap lug width provides information about the width of the Watch strap at the attachment point.

Spring bar
This is a small metal pin that can be pressed in at one or both ends. It can be pressed because it is equipped with a small spring inside. Spring bars are used to attach the strap to the Watch case. Each spring bar is secured by pressing it into a designated recess on the clasp lugs.

Lugs
This term refers to the sections belonging to the Watch case where the strap is attached. They are usually located at 11 and 1 o'clock and at 7 and 5 o'clock. These parts of the Watch case are called clasp lugs or horns because, depending on the model and finish, they protrude noticeably from the case. The distance between two horns is called the strap lug width.

Screw-down clasp / screw-down lug
In some Watch models, original clasps and strap lugs are fixed by screws. This means the spring bars cannot simply be released from the case by a spring mechanism but must be loosened with a small screwdriver. If this is the case, clear screws should be visible on the strap lug and the clasp.

Clasps and what belongs to them

Tang
Every tang buckle includes a metal tang made of gold or steel, which, when connected with a Watch strap made of leather or textile, ensures perfect hold of the entire closure.

Tang buckle or pin buckle
A tang buckle consists of a metal strap (usually gold or steel) and a tang, which securely holds the closure together when the strap is closed. The tang buckle is located at one end of the strap. The counterpart of the Watch strap is equipped with holes.

A special type of this clasp is the wide tang buckle. This specific clasp type differs from a regular tang buckle in its wide tang. Usually, the tang is also significantly flatter than that of a regular tang buckle.

Folding clasp
A folding clasp is designed by name to be folded to close. It is always firmly connected to both sides of a Watch strap, so the strap never has to be fully opened. By opening the folding clasp, the strap lengthens and the Watch can be easily slipped off. Folding clasps come in various designs. Most folding clasp variants are possible for both leather and metal straps.
The classic variant is the flip folding clasp. It has a metal bar that can be opened on one side. This type of clasp is available in various designs. Usually, matching watch straps for folding clasps (without hole part) are necessary to attach the clasp correctly. However, some flip folding clasps are also designed so that a common pin buckle strap can be attached to the flip folding clasp. Additional pushers on the sides of the clasp make opening easier.
Safety folding clasps can also only be opened on one side and have an additional bar over the clasp part. This protects the clasp from unintentional opening and provides a secure hold.
The butterfly or double folding clasp opens wing-like and thus has a larger surface to open the watch strap further.

Sliding or slide clasp
This is the term for a type of clasp often used on Milanese and textile straps. The sliding clasp visually resembles a folding clasp. The mechanism includes a hook flap that locks into the band when fastening. With a watch tool, this flap can be released and the slider can be easily moved on the band.

Buckle arms
The two side parts of a pin buckle are called buckle arms. To connect them and attach the buckle to the band, a spring bar is needed. This is clamped between both buckle arms.

Tools

Band holder block
This tool is used to secure a metal bracelet at a right angle. Once the band is fixed in the band holder block, bars and screws can be loosened without the band slipping to the side.

Spring bar tool
With the help of this tool, numerous tasks can be performed on a watch. The spring bar tool consists of an elongated metal pin with a handle, which provides a functional surface on both sides: One side is shaped like a kind of fork and offers, for example, the possibility to grasp and press a spring bar or to open a clasp flap using leverage. The other side of this tool is pointed, allowing pins to be easily pressed in.

Hole punch
This tool is needed to enlarge a hole in a leather strap or a watch strap made of another material. This allows the strap to be worn shorter. A hole punch usually has several differently sized punching elements with which you can adjust your watch strap to the correct wrist circumference.