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Article: The development of luxury watches from the 1920s to the 2000s and their prominent wearers

Rolex Daytona, Patek Nautilus und Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
7 Minute Read

The development of luxury watches from the 1920s to the 2000s and their prominent wearers

At the beginning of the 20th century, the wristwatch celebrated its definitive breakthrough due to its various functionalities and handling. Over the decades, renowned manufacturers such as Rolex, Cartier, and Omega conquered the market with their mechanical timepieces. Many models only became true celebrities through their prominent wearers. With a small journey through history, we look at the perfect symbiosis of celebrity and luxury watch.

The wristwatch had long had a very feminine image, while the gentlemen of creation still clung to the pocket watch. It was precisely World War I that was to break these stereotypes. Suddenly, wristwatches were highly popular because of their easy readability, wearing comfort, and continuously evolving technology. Especially soldiers, pilots, or divers appreciated the various models developed specifically for them. At that time, wristwatches had not only an optical but especially a practical use.

1920s – Cartier Tank sets standards

Cartier Tank Américaine

In the 1920s, the wristwatch experienced a real boom, and Louis Cartier already knew how to exploit the potential early on. With the Cartier Tank, a watch was developed that has held its ground on the market to this day. The characteristic shape, which was actually modeled after a tank, is also appreciated by celebrities who were seen wearing a Cartier Tank on their wrists in the following decades.

Boxer Muhammad Ali, Princess Diana, artist Andy Warhol, First Lady Michelle Obama, Cary Grant, Truman Capote, John F. and /Jackie Kennedy, as well as actor Jake Gyllenhaal, are known as wearers or even official brand ambassadors of the Cartier brand and the Cartier Tank as one of the most popular models.

1930s in Art déco style

In the 1930s, Art déco was a style that also decisively influenced wristwatches and jewelry. Art déco is characterized by a stylized, flat representation of floral and organic motifs that strongly rely on symmetry. The stunningly beautiful Reverso with a black Art Déco dial and rose gold case is exemplary of the development in the 1930s.

Leonardo DiCaprio, Lenny Kravitz, and Pierce Brosnan were among those who could be enthusiastic about the newer models of the LeCoultre Reverso.

Another watch inspired by its namesake was the Longines Lindbergh. The famous pilot Charles Lindbergh was to advance the development of the watch, and decades later, Humphrey Bogart (also in the film Casablanca), Amelia Earhart, Audrey Hepburn, and polar explorer Richard Byrd were still captivated by the movement.

1940s as the era of Pilot watches

Rolex Oyster Perpetual

World War II cast its shadow over the world and had a significant influence on the development of wristwatches. Primarily, it was Pilot watches that conquered the market and sold excellently. IWC and other manufacturers relied on sophisticated technology, good readability, and shatter resistance. Iconic Pilot watches like the IWC Pilot or the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King are known worldwide for their precision, outstanding technology, and instrument look. Football legend Tom Brady and Formula 1 star Lewis Hamilton like to show off the famous watches from the house of IWC.

1950s with Marilyn Monroe & Elvis Presley

In the 1950s, new standards were set from various perspectives. The Rolex Submariner was to inspire and dominate future generations of luxury watches with its sporty elegance to this day. For the first time in this decade, celebrities also contributed to the worldwide fame of watches.

Vintage Rolex GMT-Master steel / gold automatic men's watch 16753 Vintage  [2504942]Rolex GMT-Master steel / gold automatic men's watch 16753 Vintage  [2504942]
Vintage Omega Seamaster steel automatic men's watch 368.1061 Vintage  [2506456]Omega Seamaster steel automatic men's watch 368.1061 Vintage  [2506456]
Vintage Rolex GMT-Master steel automatic men's watch 16750 Vintage  [2600119]Rolex GMT-Master steel automatic men's watch 16750 Vintage  [2600119]
Vintage Rolex Oysterquartz steel / white gold quartz men's watch 17014 Vintage  [2600319]Rolex Oysterquartz steel / white gold quartz men's watch 17014 Vintage  [2600319]
Vintage Rolex Date steel / gold automatic men's watch 1505 Vintage  [2507383]Rolex Date steel / gold automatic men's watch 1505 Vintage  [2507383]
Vintage Rolex Lady Date steel / gold automatic women's watch 6917 Vintage  [2506714]Rolex Lady Date steel / gold automatic women's watch 6917 Vintage  [2506714]
Vintage Omega Speedmaster Date chronograph steel automatic men's watch 376.0806 Vintage  [2503086]Omega Speedmaster Date chronograph steel automatic men's watch 376.0806 Vintage  [2503086]
Vintage Omega Constellation steel quartz men's watch 196.0147   396.0879 Vintage  [2502404]Omega Constellation steel quartz men's watch 196.0147   396.0879 Vintage  [2502404]

Style icon Marilyn Monroe helped the brand Blancpain gain high esteem, and the "King" Elvis Presley was the inspiration for several models. The "Elvis’ Omega Constellation" was named after him, and the Rolex King Midas was another jewel that officially adorned his arm. The consequence was a fame for wristwatches that not everyone had on their radar until then.

1960s with moon landing and Rolex lovers

ROLEX, SIR JACKIE STEWART © Rolex

The 1960s were extremely eventful, and celebrities discovered their fondness for the brand "Rolex." The Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman" was dedicated to the renowned actor, and the Swiss manufacturer was also found on the wrists of John F. Kennedy, Martin Luther King, and racing driver Sir Jackie Stewart.

Rolex also conquered the James Bond films in the 1960s. Sean Connery as 007 in "Dr. No" demonstrated good taste in watches with the Rolex Submariner (Reference Number 6538), which also became known as the "Big Crown."

The moon landing helped the Omega Speedmaster Professional gain fame because Buzz Aldrin wore the extraordinary watch with Reference Number 105.012 during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969.

In this decade, the transformation from a functional wristwatch to a fashionable accessory was finally completed.

1970s with Steve McQueen & Marlon Brando

Films, actors, and celebrities have contributed to the fame of luxury watches in the past. With the TAG Heuer Monaco, it was the legendary film "Le Mans" with Steve McQueen that catapulted the watch to worldwide fame overnight. The film is considered the most authentic racing film of all time and boosted the popularity of the TAG Heuer Monaco.

It is still gladly worn today by Bill Paxton, Al Pacino, or Maria Sharapova. Marlon Brando, on the other hand, supported the Rolex brand with various models through his appearance.

The so-called quartz crisis affected the entire watch industry and almost cost it its raison d'être. Jean-Claude Biver was to initiate a turnaround with the purchase of the rights to the Blancpain brand and later Zenith. Mechanical luxury watches consciously distinguished themselves from the masses with craftsmanship, tradition, and eternity and finally established themselves as collector's and lifestyle objects.

Watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1972 with a steel case or the Patek Philippe Nautilus 1976 caused a sensation with their design. Steph Curry, Travis Scott, Drake, and Justin Bieber are known as wearers of the Royal Oak.

1980s with Richard Gere and Patrick Bateman

Rolex Datejust

The 1980s were very diverse in perception. While Swatch, a watch manufacturer, focused on color and excited many, it was rather the classic and vintage models in the luxury watch segment. Richard Gere, as the epitome of a gentleman in "Pretty Woman," wore a Rolex Datejust, while Prince Michael of Kent was photographed with an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Patrick Bateman revealed his affection for a Rolex Datejust. Clint Eastwood was also seen with the same brand (Rolex GMT-Master 16753 Root Beer), while Bruce Springsteen wore a Heuer Autavia 1163.

1990s with Steffi Graf and Sylvester Stallone

Panerai Radiomir

In the 1990s, mechanical watches conquered the market again and silenced the era of quartz watches. Sylvester Stallone helped the brand Panerai to a boom because he not only wore it in films but also gave away 200 pieces, thus starting the triumph. Arnold Schwarzenegger, another film star of the 90s, shaped the image of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, with which he was often seen. This also fueled the hype around large and striking watches.

The partnership between Omega and the James Bond films is by no means forgotten. In 1995, Pierce Brosnan made his debut as the new James Bond in GoldenEye with a quartz-driven Omega Seamaster 300M, later with a mechanical Omega Seamaster 300M Professional Chronometer.

German sports icon Steffi Graf triumphed with stylish watches from Longines, while John Travolta brought the Breitling Navitimer 01 into the spotlight.

2000s – the luxury watch becomes the perfect accessory

Tudor David Beckham © Tudor

In previous decades, it was individual celebrities who were spotted with matching luxury watches. In the 2000s, the luxury watch developed into a perfect accessory for musicians, actors, artists, and other prominent personalities, also on social media. The list seems endlessly long, but a small excerpt shows the diversity.

Social media acts as a multiplier of trends and celebrity sightings. Both on Instagram and TikTok, celebrities cause a stir by wearing luxury watches. Particularly striking models stand out, vintage watches are brought out of obscurity, and new trends are created.

Footballer David Beckham and musician Lady Gaga are associated with Tudor, Leonardo DiCaprio wears a Rolex Datejust or a watch from Tag Heuer. Jennifer Lawrence and Kate Winslet have an affection for Longines Watches, while Ryan Reynolds chose the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. George Clooney relies on an Omega Speedmaster Professional, and Sebastian Vettel on a Girard Perregaux.

This impressively shows how the symbiosis of celebrity and luxury watch has developed. The striking models are now indispensable from the famous wrists.

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